Most residential landscapes are built from five groups of materials: ground covers like mulch and rock, soil and amendments, hardscape surfaces, edging and borders, and plants. The right choice in each group depends on how the area will be used, how much maintenance you want, your climate and your budget. Picking materials one at a time often leads to a yard that looks mismatched or costs more to maintain, so it helps to plan them together.
Part of our Complete Yard Design and Planning Guide: layouts, ideas by yard type, phasing and budgets in one place.
Ground covers: mulch, rock and gravel
Ground covers protect soil, hold moisture and keep weeds down in planting beds.
Organic mulch
Shredded hardwood, bark nuggets, pine straw and wood chips break down over time and feed the soil. They need topping up every year or two. Shredded mulch stays put on gentle slopes; large bark nuggets can float away in heavy rain.
Decorative rock and gravel
River rock, crushed granite, pea gravel and lava rock last for years without replacement. Rock holds heat, so it can stress plants in hot climates, and leaves and debris collect between stones. It’s a good fit around foundations, in dry gardens and in drainage areas.
Our mulch vs decorative rock cost guide compares upfront and long-term costs side by side.
Soil and amendments
Soil is the least glamorous material and often the most important. New beds and lawns perform better when the soil is prepared first.
Ask suppliers where their soil comes from and whether it’s screened. Cheap, unscreened soil can bring rocks, debris and weed seeds. If you’re unsure whether to add topsoil or improve what you have, see our soil amendment vs topsoil guide.
- Topsoil fills low spots and builds up new beds or lawn areas.
- Compost improves structure and fertility in existing soil.
- Garden or planting mix blends topsoil and compost for raised beds and new plantings.
- Fill dirt is for grading and backfill, not for growing plants.
Hardscape surfaces
Hardscape includes patios, walkways, driveways, steps and walls. These are the highest-cost materials and the hardest to change later.
| Material | Rough installed cost | Strengths | Tradeoffs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gravel or crushed stone | $2 to $6 per sq ft | Cheapest, drains well, easy DIY | Migrates, needs edging and raking, harder for wheels |
| Poured concrete | $6 to $15 per sq ft | Durable, smooth, low upkeep | Cracks over time, plain look, hard to patch invisibly |
| Stamped concrete | $12 to $25 per sq ft | Decorative at a mid-range price | Needs resealing, repairs show |
| Concrete pavers | $15 to $35 per sq ft | Repairable, many styles | Joint sand upkeep, weeds if base is poor |
| Natural stone (flagstone, bluestone) | $20 to $50+ per sq ft | Distinctive, long-lasting | Highest cost, uneven surfaces with some types |
Costs vary by region, base requirements, access and design complexity. The base underneath matters as much as the surface. For a closer look at surfaces, see our patio and walkway materials guide.
Edging and borders
Edging separates lawn from beds, keeps mulch and gravel in place and holds pavers together.
- Plastic edging: cheapest but can heave or look wavy.
- Steel or aluminum edging: clean, thin lines that last for years.
- Stone, brick or paver borders: decorative and mower-friendly.
- Spade-cut natural edge: no material cost, but needs re-cutting a few times a year.
Paver patios and walkways need a dedicated edge restraint so the pavers don’t spread over time.
If you use steel edging, set it so the top sits just above the soil line, low enough for a mower wheel to pass over and high enough to hold mulch back.
Plants and lawn
Plants are materials too, and their size at purchase drives cost. Smaller container sizes cost much less and often catch up to larger plants within a few seasons. Larger plants give an instant look but cost more and can struggle more after transplant.
For lawns, sod gives an instant result at higher cost, seed is cheapest but slower, and artificial turf has a high upfront cost and low water use. Choose plants for the sun, soil and space they’ll actually have at mature size.
Consider water needs too. In dry regions, native and drought-tolerant plants paired with rock or mulch can cut irrigation significantly. In wet areas, choose plants that tolerate soggy soil for low spots rather than fighting the conditions.
How to choose materials that work together
- Start with use. Where do people walk, sit, play or park? Those areas need durable hardscape.
- Match your house. Pull colors and textures from your roof, siding, brick or trim.
- Limit the palette. Two or three hardscape materials and one or two ground covers usually look more cohesive than many.
- Think about maintenance. Mulch needs topping up, gravel needs raking, pavers need joint sand, and concrete may need sealing.
- Plan drainage. Impermeable surfaces send water somewhere; gravel and permeable pavers let some soak in.
- Price the base, not just the surface.
Common material mistakes
- Using landscape fabric under organic mulch, where soil builds up on top and weeds root anyway.
- Piling mulch against tree trunks or siding.
- Choosing light rock or pavers that glare in full sun.
- Skipping edging, so gravel and mulch spread into the lawn.
- Buying soil by price alone and getting debris-filled fill.
- Under-ordering, then struggling to match color or batch later.
For budgeting across a whole project, our guide to what landscaping materials cost lists typical prices by category.
Frequently asked questions
What is the lowest-maintenance landscaping material?
Well-installed hardscape and decorative rock need the least routine upkeep. Even rock collects leaves, though, and all surfaces need some cleaning.
Should I buy materials in bags or in bulk?
Bulk delivery is usually cheaper for more than a few cubic yards of mulch, soil or gravel. Bags make sense for small areas or where a truck can’t dump close to the work.
How much mulch or gravel do I need?
Multiply length by width in feet, multiply by the depth in inches, then divide by 324 to get cubic yards. Add a little extra for settling and uneven ground.
Are permeable pavers worth it?
They can be in yards with drainage concerns or local stormwater rules. They cost more and need a deeper, specially built base, so get a contractor’s input.